Films do not hold grit or dust, and surface tension, the "thing" that makes a lube work, actually decreases with temperature. Then I put a film of moly based grease on the parts. Then flush the parts with a solvent spray to remove any remaining paste. For the places where the trigger return spring operates, I us a tight patch with JB Bore Paste to clean up the rough edges and burrs. I use 1000 grit-1200 grit emory on the parts showing wear from excessive contact, then finish the polished area(s) with a Dremel buffing wheel. To just go inside and start polishing and possibly stoning the parts can work well, but without knowing where your firearm is needing the effort, it may be excessive wear you didn't really want. It takes 50rds - 100rds rounds to get the moving parts to show wear patterns. Click to expand.True, the vast majority of Ruger firearms go out the door with a "safe" trigger, but everyone I ever owned needed some minor work to get them to "accurate", while still being safe and reliable.
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